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Are the Packers to Blame?
by Dr. David Porter Price, Ruminant Nutritionist
The feedlot industry
is in one of the worst marketing periods in history. If fed cattle levels
were to reach $.70, most cattlemen would feel things were good. The
reality is that cattle sold for $.70 in 1972. To be comparable in terms
of real dollars (adjusted for inflation), cattle would have to sell
for well over a dollar. The fact is that since the 1970s, the consumption
of beef has fallen by nearly 30 percent, and the price of beef in real
dollars has declined 40 percent. Faced with that scenario, any other
industry would be making massive changes . . . but not us.
Why? Because most of us believe we know what the problem is. If you
ask virtually any feedlot operator, you will get one of two answers:
either packer concentration or, captive supply.
The reality is that this belief is not the result of an analysis, but
a gut reaction. It is long standing animosity, not detailed research
that has brought producers to these conclusions. Every credible study
of packer concentration has concluded this is not the problem.
The
Real Problem
The fact is that while packers through contract cattle could conceivably
affect price on a short term basis. The problem is much greater than
that. The problem is long term. It is and has been long term because
supply is not the problem. That is, to really understand the situation,
one must understand the basic principles of economics -- supply and
demand. The first principle of economics is that price is affected by
supply. As supply goes up, price comes down. But long term, beef supply
has gone down, and so has price.
Price has gone down because demand has gone down. That is, there are
two factors that control price. How much we produce is one factor, but
how intently the public wants to buy is another. The reality is that
the public does not want to buy our product to the same extent as before.
And that is something the packer doesn't have control over. Or do they?
In the 21 years I have been serving this industry, I have been reading
research pertaining to what constitutes meat quality. And what that
research says, is that our grading system doesn't get the job done.
In fact, it works against us.
I am not alone in reaching this conclusion. Personal friends and colleagues
who are of a like mind include Dr. Rod Preston, professor emeritus of
Texas Tech University, Dr. Richard Zinn of the University of California
and Dr. M.L. Thonney of Cornell. In addition there are numerous meat
scientists. One of my favorite quotations is from a Canadian meat scientist,
Dr. S.D. Morgan Jones. "The idea that the grading system works (on both
sides of the border) is a charade that plays out on a daily basis,"
Morgan says.
Dr. Jones is a research scientist with Agriculture Canada, the Canadian
version of the USDA. Scientists from our own USDA have said, "Based
on available data, it appears that between five and 10 percent of the
variation in tenderness can be accounted for by USDA marbling degree.
Most importantly, none of the studies (on USDA marbling score) detected
palatability differences . . . that could justify the price differential
(between Select and Choice grades)."
The bottom line is that our grading system assumes that marbling is
essentially the only determinate of quality. The reality is that marbling
is only one of several aspects affecting quality.
Our grading system also assumes that the relationship with marbling
is linear. The reality is that it is curvilinear. In other words, once
you reach a certain point with respect to marbling, there is diminishing
value to further increases.
The reality is that once there is enough marbling to reach the Select
grade, further increases are of marginal value. At that point, muscle
texture becomes much more important, yet our system does not even consider
muscle texture.
The Crux of the Problem
Our grading system was designed in 1916 and has essentially remained
unchanged since that time. It is a crude system, originally designed
to differentiate corn-fed Midwest steers from grass-fed Texas Longhorns.
It assumes (but does not measure) that muscle texture will be similar
to British breeds. The problem is that dozens of new breeds have been
introduced since the inception of the grading system, that have vastly
different muscle textures.
The net result is that when a consumer buys a "Choice" steak, he or
she has no idea whether it will be tender or tough. That steak could
be from a super-tender calf-fed Holstein with over 300 days on feed
or a tough as nails roping steer that never saw the inside of a feedlot
'til he was two years old.
Why Demand is Down
There are two primary reasons demand is down. One is the health issue,
which to a certain extend our trade associations have tried to deal
with. Although not relevant to this article, it is important to realize
there is a lot more to this issue than meets the eye. As a nutritionist
I have studied the intricate details of this topic, and it appears we
have been more than just the recipients of misconception. Within the
scientific literature, there is a great deal of information that for
some reason, public health agencies have chose to ignore. Beyond that,
vegetarian, animal rights, but most ominously commercial vegetable oil
product companies have conspired to tarnish the image of animal products.
This is a major problem and it may take more than we are currently doing
to correct it.
What is germane to this discussion is the other reason demand is down
-- inconsistency. This is a problem we know we have, and it is something
over which we have control. Yet there is enormous inertia with respect
to doing anything about it. Why?
Several reasons. To begin with, most of us eat our own beef. We don't
walk into a supermarket and pay $5.99/lb. for a T-bone, when unpredictably
the steak might be tough. Several years ago I wrote an article titled,
"Curse of the Quality Grade," which pointed out that tenderness is the
primary item consumers think of in terms of quality, yet our grading
system does not address tenderness in any objective manner. This got
the attention of the industry and it created a lot of discussion.
Since that time, we have made a token gesture in the form of the B maturity
issue, but it has had no consequential effect. To begin with, depending
upon the cut, research has shown 15 to 40 percent of all supermarket
beef does not meet minimum tenderness standards. Yet a USDA audit showed
only about 1.5 percent of all carcasses graded B.
The reality is that B-maturity was a token gesture because no one wanted
to get into the real issue -- breeds. The facts are that there is much
more variation between breeds than between A & B maturity. The problem
is that some of the breed associations are highly political and vocal.
There are breeds that benefit by having an ineffective grading system
and will do virtually anything to prevent improvement.
A client who is on the NCBA Grading Task Force asked a major packer
about grading their own meat. The reply was that if forced to do so,
they would simply continue to use the old USDA system. Given the fact
that even USDA's own scientists criticize the ability of the current
system to identify quality, why don't the packers want to change.
The reason is that the entire marketing system would change. As it is
today, packers have evolved competing on procurement and packaging.
Put them on a value based system, and their world would be turned upside
down. Instead of selling #2 beef or #3 beef, they would have to genuinely
identify quality. Most unnerving, they would essentially have to guarantee
that quality to the customer.
How much would this cost? Nothing. As it is today, we assume that Choice
is superior to Select, and spend $20 to $50 extra in feed to try and
make every animal grade Choice. The reality, however, is that for any
given animal that extra feed does little more than generate excess fat
that costs extra labor to trim off. For any given steer, the carcass
with 100 to 120 days on feed will eat just as good as the same carcass
with 130 to 150 days. Under a value based system, cattle would be killed
when they reach physiological maturity. In other words, with fewer days
on feed. That saves money, all the way from the feedlot to the butcher.
An Enormous Risk/Benefit
On a recent trip to Canada, I was visiting with a couple of clients
who thoroughly understand value based marketing. Richard and Ron Heleniak
own a highly successful regional packing facility and feed a large percentage
of their own cattle. Ron said something that is totally obvious, but
most of us probably haven't thought about it.
"The big packers are not going to want to become involved in branded
products due to the damage a recall could do. Conversely, this would
be to the advantage of the industry as a whole. In other words, in the
case of an E. coli 0157:H7 recall, the public doesn't get turned off
on beef in general. If the packer's name appears on the package, they
discriminate against that brand, not the product," he said. Such would
also be the case with quality. If a housewife gets a tough steak, she
doesn't quit buying beef. She just switches to another brand.
The Future
If we want to change things for the better, we have to face reality.
To reiterate, the reality is that our current grading system does not
measure tenderness in any objective manner. As a result, it guarantees
inconsistency, while causing us to feed cattle excessively. Most important,
it ignores the genetic diversity in cattle and keeps us locked into
a commodity based pricing system.
Every one of our competitors has gone to a value based system. Ham,
bacon, broilers, turkey, catfish, cheese and diary products all have
the quality guaranteed by the processor. This not only creates consistency,
but also leads to innovation.
Every marketing study has indicated that the consumer is becoming less
and less traditional. Vital to the future will be products that can
be prepared quickly or are otherwise "user friendly." Our competitor's
products are available in a myriad of pre-cook, packaged and/or microwavable
forms. Uncooked, they often come with instructions, breaded, based or
in their own cooking utensil. Turkeys even come with internal thermometers.
While there are some canned beef products available, most are made with
imported beef which by law must be cooked. The fact is, that with respect
to our own domestic beef, in the last 50 years the only real marketing
innovation the packers have come up with is putting it in a box.
But given the fact that we market our product as a commodity, that is
not surprising. The packer achieves success not for accurately predicting
quality or providing convenience. Rather, the packer is rewarded only
through buying, processing and shipping at a lower cost.
Can We Blame the Packer?
No. As long as we continue to put blind faith in a system that ignores
muscles texture and says marbling is the only indicator of quality,
the packer has no choice. As long as we adhere to a system that says
a crossbred Brahma with 150 days on feed is the same as an Angus with
100 days, is the same as a calf-fed Simmental with 200 days, the packer
has no choice. He has to buy them as cheap as he can, put them all in
the same box and worry not what the consumer thinks.
Bottom Line
The packer is not the cause of our problems. But he is the key to our
future. By himself, however, he is not going to take us there. Left
alone, he will continue to take us down the same road we are on. Declining
real prices and market share.
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